Friday, November 6, 2009

Agra & Keoladeo National Park, Nadine’s story




I really believe it was not just luck but some higher power guiding us or our Karma that we found the sites that made John feel complete and our son understand and appreciate his father’s heritage. This was by far our greatest Indian experience.

Then on to finding a bus to Agra. We had hoped to get a nice a/c tourist bus w/ reclining seats but no such thing in Kanpur as no tourist traffic. Instead our driver kept yelling at bus drivers of moving buses until he finally found one going our way and hailed it down! 9 hr trip on local bus, stopping at every little village, the 3 of us squished in together on a bench seat, another Indian experience not to be forgotten.

We stayed in Agra for 3 nights. Filthy city with horrible touts wanting you to buy, buy, buy, rickshaw drivers in your face constantly to ride when we want to walk. We were at the Taj Mahal 31 yrs ago, when we could view it in peace. I remember being there with only a few other people. Now there are literally thousands, and some areas roped off. But still its beauty is not to be denied, aptly one of the 7 wonders of the world. So glad Kris was there with us. He had considered missing it, thinking it too touristy, but after viewing it said he was glad he did. He went with us for a sunset viewing and left the next morning on his own again. It was John’s 61st birthday (Nov. 3) that day, he did remember to wish him happy birthday and gave him a pebble from his house in Kanpur as a present (but John thinks he just got it out of a flower pot that was in our Agra hotel room, will have to ask him when we see him next). John and I went back to the Taj for sunrise viewing, pretty awesome birthday present I’d say.

Kris met a girl in Menali from Philly, she was born in Columbia. They made plans to meet in Goa, where he’d already been but different areas, and now I guess the season is picking up. He changed his Indian flight and will meet us in Amsterdam the last 2 nights. We have a week there where our friends from Scotland will meet up with us

John and I left Agra by hired car (no Kris so no need go on cheap transport! Yeah!), left Nov 4. We’re so tired (especially me) of the masses, the constant in-your-face hustling, over priced tourist shopping. We decided to come here, Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary, hoping it was going to be nice and peaceful like the tiger sanctuary, and it is! Nice hotel, hot water, toilet paper even, a/c, heaven! On the way over we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, again mobbed by guides that are out of control, non stop, taxi drivers, I finally lost it! Yelled at the guy to stop, stop, stop and I went storming off! Walked the 1 km to fort, just couldn’t take it anymore. Poor John had to follow behind me, almost didn’t catch up to me, I was in such a huff. Yep, time to say bye to India, at least for me. I didn’t even see the fort, just sat outside reading my book, ignoring the kids coming up begging, selling stuff. Told John to go ahead, if I had to deal with all the shit I was going to slap somebody!

We got here, settled in our room and went b/4 sunset to the bird park in a bicycle rickshaw (not motor rickshaw), guide following along w/ his bike. We’re not bird fans but was pretty awesome. The guide had a real powerful telescope. His eyes and ears so keen, would see a bird and set up telescope on tripod for us to see. Amazing variety, beautiful colors, forgot all the names. This is a World Heritage park; I guess the best in Asia for bird viewing. John went off early this am to the park, rented a bike. I don’t know how to ride a bike so couldn’t go, fine w/ me.

We’ll be here 2 more nights then on to Delhi for 2 nights to catch our flight to Amsterdam, look forward to meeting some Scottish friends, then home. Hard to believe our 7 wk journey is almost at an end. Feels like it went by in a flash, and yet at times like we’ve been here forever (as my meltdown attests to). I’m so ready to leave, but so glad we came and shared this journey with our son, as I’m sure he won’t want to travel w/ Mom and Dad again. Right before my eyes I saw him develop into a world traveler. I’m confident now he can go anywhere, do anything and everything.

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